The Potted Patch

The Potted Patch Australian boutique home nursery specialising in Dahlias, Cactus and Succulents

Love this hairy chonky fellow......
12/06/2026

Love this hairy chonky fellow......

While the Dahlias are sleeping for winter, I take the opportunity to separate and repot our succulents. So each week ove...
12/06/2026

While the Dahlias are sleeping for winter, I take the opportunity to separate and repot our succulents. So each week over the coming months in addition to introducing some of my favorite Dahlia varieties, I will also post a selection of our succulents,

Today I start with a cactus, and this little super hairy fellow is a fave of mine. I received it as a baby 2 years ago in a mystery box, he is now chunky & 20cm tall and looking like he is well rugged up for winter dormancy.

Happy growing everyone.

This is how today felt...cold, dark & wet. Only 3months until Spring......
09/06/2026

This is how today felt...cold, dark & wet. Only 3months until Spring......

Digging & storing Dahlia tubers......Here in Australia's that time of year....winter setting in, time to dig up and stor...
08/06/2026

Digging & storing Dahlia tubers......

Here in Australia's that time of year....winter setting in, time to dig up and store the Dahlia tubers for the next 5 months. Evergreen has their own method, this is just a brief summary of what works for me.

I wait until the first frosts have killed off the plants, or in some cases Iike this year dug a little bit early as we had a few weeks of heavy rain planned. I dug in the last week of May and over the past 2 weeks have been trimming and putting my tubers into storage. Many growers will wash and divide all of their clumps now, but I find they store better for me if I leave some dirt on, so I just make sure there are no clumps of wet soil. I removed any thin, tiny tubers, all the tails and any roots to minimise the chance of rot.

I divide bigger clumps into 2 or 3 pieces sprinkling any cut or damaged surfaces with yellow sulphur powder. I then store each variety in a mesh produce bag which allows great airflow, and throw in a label.

The bags then get layered in large foam eskys, which are reused year after year (obtained from local GP clinics that have an endless supply of these eskys from vaccine deliveries which would otherwise end up in landfill). Depending on the shape & size of each mini clump, I can get 30-40 produce bags layered in one esky, vs only 6 or 7 full clumps. Between each layer, and to cover the top I use a mixture of dry potting mix combined with wood shavings which are super cheap purchased from the local ag store.

I check on random bags monthly to monitor condition, if tubers are drying out its easy to add a spritz of water if needed.

Now it's just a waiting game until Spring comes around. Stay tuned for an update next week on our Autumn cuttings and how they have progressed over the past 6 weeks......

Our winter series introduces a range of the top cultivators from the past growing season. Today we showcase ‘BRACKEN PAL...
24/05/2026

Our winter series introduces a range of the top cultivators from the past growing season. Today we showcase ‘BRACKEN PALOMINO’…. a small-medium decorative variety that produces an abundance of full blooms throughout the growing season.

Orange coloured dahlias are definitely not at the top of my favourites list, however the warm orange/golden/peach tones produced by Bracken Palomino make for a wonderful contrast of colour against brighter, bolder varieties. Palomino can be a little prone to sun-bleaching, but the good news is the colour gradient of the blooms works well in blending in a some sun-fading if you don’t get them picked early enough. Alternatively, covering with 50% white shadecloth will do wonders.

These are great cut flowers, with long stems and blooms that last well in a vase, maintaining full closed centres.

This plant is a grower! I allow a little more space than usual when planting this variety to allow for the abundant thick growth that supports the armfuls of blooms it provides. My Palomino’s are quite pest tolerant and bounce back very quickly after super hot, dry spells.

Palomino is also an excellent producer of healthy tubers which store well over winter and are one of the varieties which wake early when Spring comes around. For me, this one is a staple in the patch each year with few plants needed to produce a high number of blooms.

Happy growing everyone……

Introducing my surprise star for this past season.....'Cricket', also known as 'Mauve Cricket'. This was a tuber supplie...
17/05/2026

Introducing my surprise star for this past season.....'Cricket', also known as 'Mauve Cricket'. This was a tuber supplied in a mystery pack that I purchased just as a space filler for the season......now here we are at the end of the season, and this beauty has rocketed near the top of my 'keeper list' for future seasons.

The first few weeks of blooms were all crema coloured, no hint of pink/mauve at all. The first blooms were a little scruffy & certanothing that caught my attention. At this stageit was bound for the compost at the end of the season. Then, as though it had read my thoughts, it started showing its true form. Lovely incurved rolled florets that developed more & more colour as the season progressed. Just like that...'compost' was quickly crossed off the list for Cricket.

This plant was approx 1.2mtr tall and a good producer of blooms. On a downside the stems were much thinner than I would prefer, but given the lighter weight blooms, once they are stuffed in a vase they are well suppose their neighbours. Because of the thinner stems, this plant definitely requires some additional staking. Blooms are medium, generally 15-16cm. They offer a wonderful textural contrast to the more uniform decs & balls.

For me, Cricket began as an ugly duckling that developed into a beauty.

In the next two weeks I will begin lifting & storing for winter, so hopefully have a few extra tubers that make it to Spring. Hopefully it is a good storer!

Happy growing everyone!

Dahlias & end of season cutting back......To cut back or not cut back? This is a question I am routinely asked. Like mos...
09/05/2026

Dahlias & end of season cutting back......

To cut back or not cut back? This is a question I am routinely asked. Like most rules when growing dahlias – there are no rules. Each stage of growing, and how it works best, will depend on your climate & growing environment, ground vs raised beds vs pots, growing medium, pests, purpose for growing, plans for storing etc. And each year, many of these factors vary, so just when you think you have figured out the perfect recipe for success, mother nature comes along next season, or part way through your current season, and throws you a curveball or ten.

For me, depending on how soon the first Autumn frosts arrive, I usually dig and place my tubers in storage at the end of May (to dig or not to dig is a whole separate discussion…stay tuned). In the first couple of weeks of May, I usually have part of my patch starting to yellow, droop and die off, with other parts still vibrant green and producing more buds. All of our beds are protected by shade cloth, so even the first couple of light frosts don’t send the plants to their impending death. Many people don’t cut back at all, they just wait until their plants have died off then pull/dig. Cutting back initially creates more work, and also introduces additional risk to be aware of – hollow stems can trap & direct water down to the tuber which can create an increased environment for tuber rot. Despite this, I choose to cut back, for two main reasons…… 1) it reduces pesky powdery mildew which moves in fast at this cooler, damp time of year. The mildew won’t impact the underground tubers, but I like to remove it to reduce the chance of it spreading to other nearby (non-dahlia) plants which are sensitive to mildew. 2) When it comes to the time of digging & diving, I have less messy, droopy damp growth to remove from the plant. What about the hollow stems? The most common methods for protecting tubers is using bluetak stuffed into the holes or covering the top of the cut stems. For my garden bed plants, I do the latter, quickly & easily with a small piece of aluminium kitchen foil scrunched over the top of the stem. It stays in place well during any wind & rain events and is easily pulled off and popped in the bin before I dig the plant up. For my potted dahlias, I simply cut them back and move the pot under cover where they will be protected from any rain.

HOW FAR TO CUT BACK?
Again, there is no ‘rule’ to say you have to cut back at all, but if you do then general advice across growers is to cut back by a third when the plants are starting to yellow & die off. 2-3 weeks later, cut back by another third. I will either do one or two cut backs, depending on when the frost comes. If I have done the first cutback and we get heavier frost, the plants will often then die off very quickly and be ready for digging. The other, and most important contributing factor for me is rainfall. While dahlias still need a little moisture at the very end of the season, we certainly don’t want them sitting in cooler, wet/soggy soil if there is a lot of rainfall. When I say ‘a lot of rain’….a single large amount of rain is very different to ongoing days of heavy rain. I have recently done the first 1/3 cutback of my plants, and we were forecast for a day of 40mm of rain just after I cut them back. That’s OK! My plants are all grown in raised beds and pots with well draining soil. After several dry weeks, they will get some moisture but most will happily drain away. In contrast, last year at cutback time we had several weeks of consistent heavy rain which meant the ground was going to stay very wet at a time when risk of tuber rot was increased. Last year I dug up my tubers a few weeks earlier than usual before the extended rain period hit. I just dig down and monitor the soil. I’m not fussed if early frosts come, the tubers are well protected under the soil….it is consistent rain that I aim to avoid…...but more on this soon when we chat about digging vs not digging at the end of the season.

The other tip I can give if you choose to cut back, to help avoid too many hollow tuber cuts, is to cur laterals and stems above & next to a node. Stems on most varieties become hollow as the plant matures. Most (not all) plants will be solid at the node points, so by trimming off laterals next to the node, and stems just above the node, you might be able to use the node as a natural stopped, meaning no need to plug or cover a hollow stem. I have included a photo to demonstrate this. In the photo, one of the cuts has a pin hole in the centre, but that hole doesn’t go all the way through the node, so there is no need for me to cover it. IN other places, I have cut on the stem and covered it with foil. At the time of first cutback, I leave the healthy green foliage where possible, to assist with photosynthesis encouraging the plant to direct as much energy as possible into end of season tuber health rather than into trying to produce more blooms. At this stage I am also cutting off any new buds on plants that are still eager to grow.

There are a lot of helpful videos online around this topic, I encourage new growers to check them out but remember, the journey is about learning what others do, but then figuring out what works best for you. This is an ongoing process, with new learnings every season. Enjoy the journey, embrace the failures and love the successes.

Happy growing everyone!

Beautiful colour on our crepe myrtles as they get ready to drop their leaves.....
09/05/2026

Beautiful colour on our crepe myrtles as they get ready to drop their leaves.....

Nature busy doing its thing.....
02/05/2026

Nature busy doing its thing.....

Dahlia Seed Collection Experiment...Today I tested picking seed pods at various stages of maturity to test the differenc...
02/05/2026

Dahlia Seed Collection Experiment...

Today I tested picking seed pods at various stages of maturity to test the difference in seed production quantity and quality. The results definitely surprised me. Usually, I would wait for the seed pod to be dark and dry before harvesting seed. While this process is always effective, todays test has demonstrated it might not be the most productive.

The following is a summary of the findings along with photos of each of the stages described.

For comparative accuracy, seed pods were all picked from 2 x plants of the same variety (Oberon), with pods at 3 varying stages of development: fresh/early pods / mid development pods and end stage dry pods. A total of 9 pods were picked - x3 of each at the same stage of development.

QUANTITY RESULTS:
The dry seed pods produced the lowest quantity of healthy, mature seeds. 3 x pods produced 7, 9 and 14 seeds.

The fresh/early stage pods each produced 16, 18 and 21 healthy seeds.

The mid development pods produced the greatest number of heathy, viable seeds......by a significant level. These 3 pods produced 28, 31 and a whopping 41 seeds.

Quantity summary: the mid stage pods produced the highest quantity of heath viable seeds, significantly higher than the other samples tested.

QUALITY RESULTS:
As expected, the dry seed pods produced the most mature hardened seeds, just less of them. They were easier to separate from the dry chaff compared to the under-developed pods.

The fresh/early stage pods each produced a much high number of small, young green under-developed seeds, however, as per above still produced much higher viable seed numbers than the dry seed pods. The fat bellied seeds were lighter in colour but still firm. The skin of the seed was definitely softer to the touch than the more mature seeds and they were slightly smaller (but not too much), so it will be interesting to see how they go in storage until planting time......watch this space!

The mid development pods produced firm, well coloured seeds which were the same size in comparison to those taken from the fully dry seed pods. There were a few younger, under-developed or thin seeds, but even after disposing of these, the quantity of healthy seeds really surprised me.

Quantity summary: the mid stage pods produced the highest quantity of heath viable seeds, significantly higher than the other samples tested, with quality slightly less mature/hardened than the fully dry pods, but visually very close.

OVERALL SUMMARY:
Having all been sampled from the same 2 plants of the same variety, these finding were really fun to discover and will likely change the timing of my seed harvesting in the future.

The next part of the testing will be to see how the seeds store over winter, then in Spring I will test the differences in germination rates and growth variations.....so stay tuned!

Happy growing everyone.

Address

PO Box 8082
Wodonga, VIC
3690

Alerts

Be the first to know and let us send you an email when The Potted Patch posts news and promotions. Your email address will not be used for any other purpose, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

Contact The Business

Send a message to The Potted Patch:

Share