30/06/2022
TWO GITA-GOVINDA KHANDUA PATA TEMPLE CLOTHS (from the Richardson Collection). INDIA.
WOVEN in Mathasahi, Odisha, by national award winner, Shri Sudam Charan Guin, the head of one of two families that have been weaving mulberry silk Gita-Govinda temple cloths for at least six generations.
These khandua pata are probably one of the oldest surviving types of the religious ikats of Odisha – one historical record notes that such cloths were being woven at Nuapatna as early as 1719 CE. The term khandua refers to a cloth worn on the lower part of the body, while the term pata indicates that it is woven from mulberry silk.
These cloths are associated with the huge twelfth-century Hindu Jagannath Temple in the nearby important ritual centre of Puri, which is dedicated to Lord Jagannath (‘lord of the universe’), an incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Centuries ago, the temple’s sevayats (religious attendants) commissioned weavers in Nuapatna to produce cloths for dressing the temple’s idols, especially the wooden idols of Lord Jagannath, his sister Devi Subhadra and his elder brother Lord Balabhadra. These are paraded during the annual Rath Yatra festival, held in June or July, along the Great Road outside the temple on massive four-wheel chariots (juggernauts) covered with huge cloth towers.
These sacred cloths are decorated in weft ikat with verses from the Gita Govinda, a devotional poem written in Oriya by the twelfth-century Puri poet Jayadeva and dedicated to the Hindu deity Krishna. Naturally the stanzas most frequently incorporated in these fabrics are from the first part of the Gita Govinda describing Vishnu’s ten incarnations. The anchal or muha end panel is typically made with three dominant colours, corresponding to the three chariots at the Ratha Yatra festival—green for the deity Balabhadra, red for Subhadra and yellow for Jagannath.
from Asian Textile Studies