05/09/2026
Day 1: After a 3 AM arrival that morning, we surfaced around noon and had a late lunch at the YURTA Boutique Hotel restaurant, a local institution. Horse meat and kumis featured heavily on the menu — a favorite of Rachel’s, if no one else’s. The Welcome Set alone offered five varieties, from smoked soft qymyz to a five-day strong version.
Afterward we took the cable car up Kok-Tobe Hill, a hilltop park with families, a zoo, a bouncy house, and kid chaos that makes an afternoon. Back down for dinner at a restaurant with folk dancers, though by then we were tired and grumpy, so it was an early night.
Day 2 started at the National Museum — a collection of textiles, carpets, dinosaurs, and gold jewelry under a Soviet-era hall, plus a wing of video installation work, including a Bill Viola piece and Richard Serra sculpture.
From there we walked to the park to see the Ascension (Zenkov) Cathedral, a wooden Russian cathedral, and fed pigeons in the square. I came away with a Russian hat.
Lunch was Korean — beef, bibimbap, fried chicken — which made our daughter happy. We closed the day at Dostyk Plaza, a mall whose top floor is a kids’ entertainment center: bouncy houses, games, the works.
This became a pattern — the price of dragging a six-year-old through museums all day is a kids’ park at the end of it. There’s also a Zara Home in the mall that was better than expected; she came away with a robe. Don’t tell anyone.
Day 3 started early at the Green Bazaar — an old market in a Russian building, full of dried fruit, nuts, honey, dried raspberries and strawberries, fresh bread, and lemonade for the road.
From there we walked to the Museum of Musical Instruments, a neoclassical wooden building (more pigeon-feeding nearby), and I ducked into the War Museum next door — exhibits of Russian and Kazakh uniforms and medals, somber diorama scenes, and sculpture in the surrounding park.
We finished with a ride on the Almaty metro to see its stations — three or four stops known for over-the-top mosaics and chandeliers, worth the detour. One last dinner back at YURTA to close out the Almaty leg.