Wool & Beyond

Hem
Sverige
Malmö
Wool & Beyond

Wool & Beyond was founded in Malmö for the passion of making and sharing the joy of crafts.

23/09/2026

these are some tiny tricks i use everytime i knit that make a HUGE difference! 🔥

none of these are complicated, they’re just little things i’ve picked up on over the years that makes my knitting look neater and more polished!

save this for your next project!!!

if your stockinette looks uneven when worked flat (back and forth), your purl stitches might be looser than your knit stitches.

try going down 0.5–1 mm for the purl rows only. this can help even out your tension without having to consciously change the way you knit!

if your ribbing looks loose or a little messy, try working it with a smaller needle! going down 0.5–1 mm will create a tighter, more defined fabric and can make your ribbing look much neater and more polished 💫

before starting your ribbing, knit one full row in stockinette using the smaller needle. then start the ribbing on the following row. it creates a cleaner, sharper transition and helps avoid that slightly loose, messy first row of ribbing!

if picking up stitches leaves little holes or loose stitches along the edge, try picking them up with a smaller needle and the switch back to your regular needle afterwards.

you could also work the picked-up stitches through the back loop to tighten them, but this twists the stitches, which isn’t always the look you want…

leave your fave knitting hacks below! 👇🏽

17/09/2026

i think every knitwear designer has a few design features they just can’t leave alone… these are mine 👉🏽

chunky cables, horizontal back yokes & ties/bows. somehow they keep sneaking their way into my designs again and again.

at this point I think we can officially call them part of the wool & beyond design language 🤘🏽

which one’s your fave; chunky cables, horizontal back yoke or ties? or do you have another one???

13/09/2026

but here’s how to choose a substitute that ACTUALLY works! 🧶👉🏽

when substituting yarn you need to think about more than just gauge! fiber, yarn construction, weight/meterage and the fabric you want/need.

however you do have to get gauge in order to be able to make the garment to its intended size and shape.

if the pattern calls for 20 sts per 10 cm, you want a yarn that can comfortably create a fabric around that gauge. but don’t just look at the yarn label… SWATCH! always! and needle size is just a suggestion - gauge is what truly matters.

now you want to compare meters per gram - this is my fave shortcut. if the original yarn has 100 m per 50 g, i look for a yarn with a similar meterage!

if the original sweater is made in wool and you substitute it with cotton, you might get the gauge right, but the finished sweater will probably be: heavier, less elastic, more drapey and more likely to grow!

you don’t necessarily have to use the same fiber - but you need to understand what you’re doing!

ask yourself; is the original yarn fluffy, smooth, rustic, dense or airy? try to find something with a similar character since this will dictate so much of how the actual garments turns out.

what does the design NEED? fx a cabled sweater needs stitch definition! an oversized structured sweater needs body + shape retention! a flowy blouse needs drape!

knit - wash - dry - measure. then check; did i get gauge? do i like the fabric? is it too stiff or too loose? did it grow? does it have the drape/structure i want and need?

the gauge can be spot on and the yarn can still be wrong 💔

but meters - not balls 🧶

if the pattern calls for 10 balls and the original yarn is 100 m per 50 g, you’ll need about 10 x 100 m = 1000 m.

if your new yarn has 125 m per 50 g you’ll need about 1000 / 125 = 8 balls. but always get a little extra just in case!

save this for future projects! 💓

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