02/05/2024
Pearl or natural pearl?
This is indeed an interesting terminology debate. According to the World Jewellery Confederation - CIBJO, a natural pearl must be formed without human intervention in the interior of molluscs and within naturally formed pearl sacs and the word "pearl", if used without qualification, shall refer only to a natural pearl, but further recommends, to avoid confusion and/or misinterpretation, that natural pearls be labelled as "natural pearls”. If the pearl secretion is formed with human intervention, and that has been documented for centuries, then the word "cultured" must be associated: if formed within a cultured pearl sac, a cultured pearl, if not formed within a cultured pearl sac, a cultured blister, for example.
Natural pearls in the modern markets, specially if not within Persian or Arabian cultures, are seldom seen as most pearl products in the jewellery industry are cultured pearls (e.g. akoya cultured pearls, south sea cultured pearls, tahitian cultured pearls, freshwater cultured pearls). However, these cultured pearls are only occasionally referred to as "cultured pearls" with the word "pearl" being used to describe them. The argument being the fact that it is implied that consumers acknowledge that if they were natural pearls they would be highlighted as such. It happens that not everyone is educated in pearl facts and following the current industry standards by CIBJO will result in an unambiguous and very clear discourse.
In the photo, the famous "Canning Jewel" pendant, made in ca. 1850-60, set with pearls, table cut diamonds and rubies. © Victoria & Albert Museum