Caloosahatchee Slabs & Lumber

Caloosahatchee Slabs & Lumber Southwest Florida's One-Stop Shop for all things wood and epoxy related.

09/03/2026

Wood floats. And during an epoxy pour, that can become a problem fast.

As resin fills the mold, the slabs naturally want to lift. That’s why this setup uses blocks, pipes, and clamps to hold everything down and keep the mold flat.

But the pressure has to be balanced. Clamp one side too aggressively and you can start pulling things out of alignment. Skip support through the middle and the slab can bow upward as the resin pushes underneath it.

The goal is simple: keep the slab flat, keep the mold flat, and keep the pressure even from end to end.

The epoxy pour might get all the attention, but a successful river table starts with the setup.

Save this for your next epoxy build. 🪵

09/02/2026

The CNC gets it close. The finishing process is what gets it right. 👇

After running this wood slab through the CNC, we were left with a little chip-out from the rotating cutter. You could spend a lot of time trying to level that by hand, but this is exactly why having a big drum sander in the woodworking shop makes such a difference.

A few passes later, the chip-out is gone and the slab is nice and flat.

But there’s another challenge hiding in this piece: softer, knotted areas with a different density than the surrounding wood.

That matters because when you sand wood with inconsistent densities, the softer areas can get taken down faster and leave subtle waves in an otherwise flat surface.

Our solution?

Soak those softer areas with CA glue to harden the first couple millimeters, let it cure, then finish everything carefully with hand sanding.

It’s one of those small woodworking techniques that can make a huge difference in the final surface, especially when you’re building custom furniture, charcuterie boards, or working with a live edge slab where every detail shows.

Good woodworking isn’t just knowing how to remove material. It’s knowing when to stop the machine and finish the job by hand.

Woodworkers: how do you handle soft knots or uneven wood density before your final sanding?

08/31/2026

Ever cut into a wood slab and find a chunk of METAL buried inside the tree? 👀

This slab was already flattened on the CNC before moving over to the 48-inch drum sander, but once we started cleaning everything up, we found something interesting buried right in the center.

A big piece of metal.

Most likely, it was put into the tree early in its life, and the tree simply continued growing around it for years.

That gray discoloration around the metal isn’t rot either. It’s a common reaction caused by iron oxidation traveling through the wood fibers.

That’s one of those things you don’t always know is hiding inside a live edge slab until you start milling it.

Thankfully, the CNC handled it without doing much damage to the cutter, and we were still able to give the slab a few additional passes before moving it over to the drum sander.

Another woodworking tip: you don’t always need to mill a slab perfectly smooth during the first flattening stage.

If you still have good thickness, leaving a little rough material gives you more wood to work with during final milling and sanding.

Every wood slab has a history. Sometimes you literally find part of that history buried inside it.

Have you ever found metal, nails, bullets, wire, or anything else unexpected inside a slab?

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08/29/2026

You calculated the epoxy perfectly… and still came up short.

That’s why we always recommend adding about 20% extra resin when calculating a pour.

On a live edge slab, the gaps you measure before the pour don’t always stay the same. As the wood and surrounding areas shift and shrink, an 1/8” gap can open up to 1/4” or more, creating new space for epoxy resin to flow into.

That extra resin isn’t necessarily “waste.” It’s your buffer for all the little variables that are hard to predict when working with natural wood.

Our rule of thumb:

Calculate your main voids.
Account for the smaller gaps.
Then add roughly 20% extra epoxy resin.

Running short halfway through an epoxy table pour is a much bigger headache than having a little resin left over.

Save this woodworking tip before your next epoxy project, and send it to a woodworker who’s planning a big pour.

Do you calculate extra resin into your pours? If so, what percentage do you usually add?

08/27/2026

The most stressful part of an epoxy pour? Walking away from it. 😅

When you leave a big live edge slab like this over the weekend, there’s always that little voice wondering what you’ll come back to.

Did the wood split? Did the shop temperature change? Did the epoxy find a hidden pathway deep inside the slab?

This one passed the weekend test. 🙌

We did get a little sinking in one area, most likely from the epoxy slowly working its way into voids deeper in the wood. But that doesn’t automatically mean something went wrong.

Once we start CNC flattening, we’ll see exactly how much remains. If there’s still some depth left in that spot, a clear epoxy resin fill could actually turn it into a detail worth keeping instead of something to hide.

That’s part of custom woodworking: you make a plan, but the wood still gets a vote.

Next up: break down the form, get this slab out, and send it to the CNC table router for flattening.

Woodworkers: when an epoxy pour sinks into a hidden void, do you fill it completely or leave some depth under clear?

08/25/2026

Deep-pour epoxy is all about controlling the heat. 🔥

Once this pour was finished, the goal wasn’t just to wait for the epoxy resin to cure. Deep pours generate heat, and when the shop is already warm, that heat can build up fast and increase the risk of cracking.

For this woodworking project, we kept the space around 75°F, ran the AC, and used a fan on a low breeze across the surface to help pull heat away while the epoxy cured.

Another detail that matters: when clamping live edge slabs, don’t overdo the clamp pressure. The wood and epoxy need a little room to move as the resin shrinks during the curing process.

And that pattern forming across the pour? One of the coolest parts of working with deep-pour epoxy. No two pours ever seem to behave exactly the same.

It’s the small woodworking techniques like temperature control, airflow, and proper clamping that can make the difference between a clean epoxy table and a very expensive lesson.

Save this for your next epoxy resin or live edge slab project, and send it to a woodworker who loves a good deep pour.

What’s the biggest lesson you’ve learned from working with epoxy?

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08/24/2026

Most epoxy bubbles are created before the resin is ever poured.

When prepping a live edge slab, the obvious cracks aren’t always the biggest concern. Rough edges, loose wood fibers, hidden cavities, and tiny microfissures can trap air and cause bubbles or foaming inside the epoxy resin.

For this woodworking project, we’re sealing those problem areas with thin CA glue before the pour. It penetrates the small splits and porous sections that can easily be missed during normal live-edge preparation.

One important safety note: thin CA glue releases extremely strong fumes while curing. Wear proper eye and respiratory protection, preferably a full-face respirator, and work in a well-ventilated space.

Good epoxy table results come down to preparation. A few extra minutes spent inspecting and sealing the wood slab can prevent hours of repairs later.

Save this woodworking tip for your next epoxy pour and share it with a woodworker who needs it.

What’s your preferred method for sealing a live edge slab before pouring epoxy?

liveedgeslab woodslab cnctablerouter handsanding fortmyers capecoral naples woodwork ероху resin DIY decor customfurniture woodworker woodworkingproject handmadefurniture customwoodworking lumberyard

08/22/2026

Your epoxy can look perfectly mixed in the bucket and still be completely wrong at pour depth.

When mixing G4 epoxy, give it the full six minutes. Keep the drill controlled and avoid over-churning. The goal is to combine Parts A and B thoroughly without whipping unnecessary air into the epoxy resin.

A few mixing details make a major difference:

• Scrape the sides thoroughly
• Reach the bottom of the bucket
• Clear material from the mixer’s hollow areas
• Break up microfiber clinging to the walls
• Avoid mixing so aggressively that you introduce excess air

Then use the clear-cup test.

Pull a sample into a clear cup approximately two inches deep. A mixture that looks solid in the bucket can appear completely different at the same depth as your actual pour.

This is especially important for a transparent epoxy table or live edge slab. At two inches, you may discover that the color is barely visible or much darker than expected.

That small test can save an entire woodworking project before the pour begins.

Save this woodworking tip for your next deep pour, and share it with a woodworker who needs to see it.

Have you ever tested your epoxy color at the project’s actual pour depth before committing?

#ероху

08/20/2026

Build the mold bigger than the table. Here’s why. 👇

When a customer requests a 105-inch epoxy table, we don’t build a 105-inch mold. We give ourselves extra room to account for the way epoxy resin and live edge slabs behave during the pour.

For this custom woodworking project, we built the box at 107 inches. Those extra two inches give us room to:

• Remove any dips or imperfections near the ends
• Create a natural, organic edge
• Trim the finished table close to the customer’s requested size
• Avoid forcing an irregular wood slab into an exact-size mold

The mold itself is simple: ¾-inch birch plywood, screws, clear packing tape, and silicone.

And here’s a woodworking tip that can save you money: you don’t always need expensive Tyvek tape. The clear packing tape we use costs about $2.50 per roll and works well. It just needs to be replaced whenever the mold is taken apart.

The most important step is sealing every seam, especially the small gaps where the sides meet. We silicone both the inside and outside, so if the inner seal fails, the outer bead can still catch the epoxy.

Once the epoxy cures, we remove the screws, knock off the sides, pry the project from the base, and rebuild the mold for another pour.

A good epoxy table starts long before the resin is mixed. Thoughtful mold construction gives the woodworker enough room to handle movement, imperfections, and the final shape without sacrificing the customer’s vision.

Would you reuse this mold-building method in your woodworking shop, or do you build your epoxy molds differently?

Address

11350 Metro Parkway #101
Fort Myers, FL
33966

Opening Hours

Monday 8:30am - 5pm
Tuesday 8:30am - 5pm
Wednesday 8:30am - 5pm
Thursday 8:30am - 5pm
Friday 8:30am - 5pm
Saturday 10am - 2pm

Telephone

+12393315925

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