04/05/2023
Lent, Easter, Palm Sunday, growning up Italian in Northern NJ, in the mid 60s to mid 70s, part one.
For the record, I don't know how to pronounce this bread. It's true, mea culpa. I don't know how to pronounce it because my grandparents spoke broken english, which translates to using an italian word or two, and then a couple of 'med-i-GAHN' words, and then more italian, and a couple of hand gestures. Then, there's the fact that each region of Italy has it's own dialect and lexicon. That's why words like BASILICO, which is Italian for BASIl, sounds like BUZZ-i-la-gaw. As a child, if someone asked me to get a SKOOL-a-bahst, I knew to get the strain-y thing we used to drain the macaroni water out of the hot pot. I was working my first job in a professional kitchen when I asked someone to get me a Skoolabahst. I understood the quaintness, the sheer provincial-ness of my childhood, at that moment. The cook had no idea what I was talking about, and frankly, I was disturbed. That I had to continue by describing the fuction of this piece of equipment only added to my confusion. How did this cook get to his elevated position in this esteemed kitchen, not knowing what a Skoolabahst was. When the cook finally had his 'aha' moment , he instructed me that this piece of culinary necessity was actually called a colander. Here is where I had a 'come to jesus' moment. To suggest that I was floored by this new knowledge is quite possibly the understatement of 1990s. So, the question of how that cook got to his position not knowing what a Skoolabahst was, is easily surmounted by how I got into my late 20s never knowing what a colander was. For the record, it's not like you are talking about Skoolabahstas with people outside the family. We don't even buy them in stores. Every single cooking relative I have, and I truly mean every single one, has the same skoolabahsta they got the day they moved into their first kitchen. Some old relative would give you one as a housewarming gift. If my Mom was still alive, I know that her skoolabahsta would be almost 70 years old, and still in use. I wouldn't be surprised if my sister took it when Mom passed.
That's why I don't know how to pronounce this bread. I grew up calling it BOO-ba-ga-loff. I have no idea what it means, or what a correct name would be, and there is no one left alive I can ask. I can look at the pronunciation of many of my culinary words and figure, or estimate, or guess, what word they truly represent in the italian language, and then I can make a connection for you 'med-i-GAHNS', (which is how we grew up saying 'Americans'). My parents were first and second generation Americans. That makes me second generation, born American. However, and that's a big however.....it generally takes till our 25 birthday or so before we stop identifying with out Italian citizenship, and start feeling more Medigahn'ish'.
So, you can imagine my chagrin when it occurred to me that the majority of my friends drained their 'noodles' in 'colanders' while we drained our rigatoni, or mostaccioli, or penne rigate in skoolabahstas; and that none of them ever heard of Boobagalof.
These same friends didn't give up stuff like candy or cookies or cake for Lent. [and oh sister, do I have tomes to say on the subject of giving stuff up for Lent]These friends didn't have to remember to get palms on Palm Sunday for Mrs Jones, who lived next door; and for some reason never ever went to church....yet we always had to bring her the palms. WTF? These friends didn't have to sit in morbid church on Good Friday making promises we didn't understand and blaming everyone that wasn't catholic for killing jesus. These friends didn't spend Friday evening in quiet contemplation about previously mentioned murder, and then eating my Mom's watery as possible Spaghetti Vongole (clams). These friends didn't spend all day Saturday cooking for the upcoming Easter feast that would start with breakfast of hard boiled eggs, sausages, cheeses, fruit, nuts, and the star of the show, the Boobagalof. Dinner, which began at 2 or 3pm would have courses of ravioli, or stuffed shells, or manicotti or even lasagna; then, 'ga-GAUTCH-a-la' (artichoke) stuffed with breadcrumbs, cheese, garlic and parsley, followed by roasts of beef, or pork, or lamb. There would be those sneaky PEETS-a-gayn pies, that looked like they were filled with something wonderful, but, instead, were just filled with the same salami and provolone we ate for lunch almost every damn day. [again, volumes more to say on that particular dish.]
No, my Medigahn friends experienced a very different Pasqua. And to be clear, they didn't get any of my Boobagalof, either.
Most people call this bread Pane di Pasqua, or Easter Bread. How boring is that name? Oh, another thing..my first husband, Ivan, would laughingly call the bread 'bo***es galore'. Pretty sure my kids do, too.
This isn't an easy bread, and there's tons of steps. However, if you take your time (about 5 hours or so), it's soooo worth it.
For 6 loaves you are gonna need:
1 1/4 c whole milk
1T dry yeast (you could use a packet if that's all you have)
2 room temp eggs
1/4 c sugar
Zest of an orange and lemon. You could use extract but go easy, because it's not supposed to taste of those flavors. Essence is what you want.
1 t vanilla
Almost 1 t anise (see, this is what you are supposed to get a bigger taste of)
4-4 1/2 c AP flour
spray oil for the bowl
6 colored easter eggs (DO NOT COOK THE EGGS FIRST, KEEP THEM RAW)
Eggwash of 1 beaten egg and 1t water
Simple Syrup made of equal parts water and sugar (1/2 cup) and 1/2 t of anise extract
Colored Non parels
Take a deep breath and begin
Heat the milk till it's 110 degrees
Add the yeast to the milk and let it proof for 5-10 mins
Beat the eggs and sugar with a paddle until pale colored.
Add the salt, zests, butter, vanilla; mix
Add half the flour with the mixer on it's lowest speed
Switch to a dough hook
Add the remaining flour, slowly. You may not need all of it. Tacky or slightly sticky is what you want. If it's really sticky, add the rest. Move the speed to medium and knead for about 5 minutes.
Place the dough into a large bowl sprayed with something like pam. Roll the dough around so it's all covered in pam.
Cover the bowl completely, let it rise in a warm place till double; about 2 hours.
Make the simple syrup by boiling all the syrup ingredients till the sugar is dissolved. Cool until needed.
Take the doubled dough onto a floured surface.
Cut it into 12 even sized pieces. Roll each piece into snakes about 12-14 inches long.
Place 2 snakes in front of you. Attach them to each other at one end, leaving the rest of snakes unattached. Twist one snake over the other, till you get to the end. Pinch the two ends together, forming a double snake.
Form the snake into a ring, tucking the ends under themselves.
Place the round, shaped loaf onto a parchment lined baking sheet. Just put 3 on a pan. Don't put them close.
Do this with the remaining 10 pieces of dough, till you have 6 loaves.
Take a colored egg and gently nestle it in the raw dough.
Take the egg wash and a brush and gently paint the wash onto the dough only. Don't get any wash onto the egg.
Carefully cover the loaves with plastic wrap.
Let rise in a warm place till double again, little more than an hour.
Uncover and bake 20-25 minutes at 350 degrees
Hey, I don't know your oven....keep an eye on them. Remove when they are a golden brown.
When cool enough to handle, move them to baking rack.
Brush with syrup glaze and sprinkle non parels on them
If you can actually serve them immediately, more power to you. These are magnificent right out of the oven.
If you want to be able to eat the egg, you will have to refrigerate these till you are ready to serve. If you don't want the egg, the counter is fine.
They get stale quickly. Day olds may need some time to warm back up.
If you are having breakfast (naturally after a painfully long mass that smells wonderful, but kills your spirit by it's sheer length) at Aunt Mary's house, you won't get the susage. You'll get keilbasa and pierogies because she married a Polish guy. But you will get the bo***es galore.