Glasswork Pixie

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Glasswork Pixie 👐🏻Handcrafted Displayable & Wearable Glass Art
🔒All Designs © 2017-2 Jacqueline Knowles
🛒Shop Pieces at www.GlassworkPixie.com

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Flying colors ☁️🎨  I spend days, weeks, or even months creating a single project, getting to see it come to life bit by ...
10/21/2026

Flying colors ☁️🎨 
 
I spend days, weeks, or even months creating a single project, getting to see it come to life bit by bit & becoming intimately familiar with each of its shapes and curves—and then bam! patina turns it into a stranger in seconds. Fortunately, it’s usually a beautiful stranger that I’m thrilled to meet. 
 
It’s shocking how darkening the lines between glass shapes allows them to pop so powerfully...I never realize just how distracting to the eye the silvery sheen of solder can be until it’s removed (check out the contrast between the first and last pic!). 
 
Pics 5-7 step back in time through each stage of this piece’s finishing process, from buffing on finishing compound to applying patina to abrading solder with steel wool. 
 
Be sure to watch Lesson 8 of my Stained Glass Basics course (available on both my & Oceanside Glass ‘s sites/YouTube channels) to see a full demonstration of each step!
 
 
 
 
 

10/20/2026

Say goodbye to dull, splotchy patina 👋🏼 
 
Abrading solder & other metals prior to applying patina is THE number one way to ensure a deep, bold, beautiful finish. 
 
Scuffing surfaces removes debris & reveals a fresh metal layer, allowing for a patina reaction that’s as potent as possible. Be sure to apply patina ASAP after this process though since that new metal layer won’t stay fresh for long. 
 
⚠️ Keeping the project wet is critical for safety! I also recommend wearing gloves, goggles, & a respirator with particulate filters because this process creates lead/other metal dust, which is highly hazardous. These precautions will weigh down dust particles so they don’t float into the air & will minimize contact with any that do happen to fly free. 
 
This clip is from Lesson 8 of STAINED GLASS BASICS (an instructional course I created with Oceanside Glass )! 
 
The full lesson is freely available on my site/YouTube (& Oceanside Glass ‘s) along with all previous lessons. In this one, you’ll learn how to clean flux from a soldered project, apply a pristine patina finish, & impart a lustrous shine to finished pieces via wax/polish/finishing compound! There’s also a supporting .pdf file with printable instructions for each of these activities so you have a reference while you work. 
 
 
 
 
 

10/18/2026

Do you know why stretching lead is vital⁉️ 
 
It tightens the lead, reducing its potential to sag, & thus preventing a project from eventually coming loose of its frame (eek!). Since lead is a “soft” metal (meaning it’s highly malleable/easily hand-bent), when it’s used as framing channel, it’ll slowly stretch due to gravity & project weight. Given enough time, it can pull away entirely, leaving the project able to run free (most likely sprinting fatally to the floor). 
 
The importance of this activity is directly correlated to the size/weight of the project, so although I recommend always stretching lead just to be safe, its necessity is somewhat dependent upon the specific project & artist’s preference. 
 
I should also mention that I’ve never personally been able to adequately stretch lead by hand/pliers alone. Not sure if I’m ridiculously weak or just have awful technique or what, but I mentioned this alternative method because many other artists have successfully done it, & lead stretchers are surprisingly expensive, so it’s important for beginners to know a workaround exists. 
 
This lead-specific excerpt is from Lesson 7 of STAINED GLASS BASICS (an instructional course I created with Oceanside Glass )! 
 
The full lesson is freely available on my site/YouTube (and Oceanside Glass ‘s) along with all previous lessons. This one will introduce you to various different framing materials, explain how the shape/size/hardness of each one affects the projects it’s most suitable for, demonstrate how to measure & cut material to size, & let you in on much more framing fun! 
 
 
 
 
 

10/15/2026

You either die a hero or live long enough to see yourself become a Toyota pancake 🥞 
 
LESSON 7 of STAINED GLASS BASICS just premiered! Go to my site/YouTube (or Oceanside Glass ‘s) to watch the full lesson and learn to frame & hang your art like a pro! You’ll also get an understanding of the differences in strength among framing materials, the uses of U-came vs. H-came, techniques for stretching lead came, & lots more! 
 
 
 
 
 

⭕ Loop locale ⭕  The solder-beaded edge of this balloon suncatcher’s curved, organic border starkly contrasts the straig...
10/14/2026

⭕ Loop locale ⭕ 
 
The solder-beaded edge of this balloon suncatcher’s curved, organic border starkly contrasts the straight, square zinc came I used to frame the caterpillar suncatcher shown in pic 2. I created these differently-edged projects during production of my Stained Glass Basics course to demonstrate the process of placing secure hanging loops, which has a lot more nuance than you may realize! 
 
The most critical factor is understanding that loops can be soldered directly to hard metal framing (like zinc), but should NEVER be soldered directly to soft metal framing (like lead) or solder-beaded edges without ALSO being connected to an interior solder seam. 
 
Copper foil adhesive will weaken over time, & soft metals will slowly stretch due to gravity, so trusting them to support a project isn’t a smart move. Hard metals on the other hand, won’t stretch, & it’s physically impossible for interior solder seams to pull away from a piece since they’re sandwiched in glass, so both of these are highly reliable hanging attachment supporters. 
 
Accordingly, you’ll notice that the balloon’s jump rings are attached right at that solder seam between the green and yellow glasses, whereas the caterpillar’s loops are attached just to the outer framing. 
 
There are a couple exceptions/workarounds to the above, but this principle should generally be adhered to if you care about your work hanging safely & securely. I’ve noticed many beginners tend to overlook this concept, which is understandable since the consequences of doing so likely won’t be seen for many years (depending on the project’s weight). 
 
Make sure to watch Lesson 7: Framing & Hanging (available now on my site/YouTube or Oceanside Glass ‘s) to see demonstrations of the above concepts! 
 
 
 
 
 

10/13/2026

My secret for perfect loops...🤫➰ 
 ..is a paintbrush! (or a shish kebab skewer, a knitting needle, or really any other thin, cylindrical object within reach). Jump rings are another great option, but I personally prefer the look of tinned wire loops, & the fact that they can be bent into fat O-shapes, elongated U-shapes, or even boxy shapes, all depending on the found object utilized to bend them over a project. 
 
This brief clip is from Lesson 7 of STAINED GLASS BASICS (an instructional course I created with Oceanside Glass )! 
 
The full lesson is freely available on my site/YouTube (& Oceanside Glass ‘s) along with all previous lessons. This one teaches you how to frame projects with either hard metal (like zinc came) or soft metal (like lead came), how to solder-bead edges, how to securely attach hanging loops and chain, & it provides lots of valuable information regarding the strength of various framing/hanging materials so you can choose the ones that will best support your project’s size/weight. 
 
 
 
 
 

Boxed in tight 📦  Although lead came is my preferred framing channel, I used zinc for this project since I wanted to be ...
10/12/2026

Boxed in tight 📦 
 
Although lead came is my preferred framing channel, I used zinc for this project since I wanted to be able to demonstrate the the process of measuring, cutting, & attaching hanging loops to both hard & soft metal channels within my Stained Glass Basics course. 
 
Squaring up those corner joints into 90° perfection is a process I find endlessly satisfying! You can see closeups of this pre-soldering (photos 2 & 3), & post-soldering (photos 4 & 5). 
 
The next lesson in this course drops tomorrow, & it’ll walk you through exactly how to frame a project with a solder bead, hard metal channel, or soft metal channel—keep an eye on my & Oceanside Glass ‘s sites/YouTube channels for the full lesson video! 🎥
 
 
 
 
 

10/11/2026

Ever struggle with messy solder junctures? 🫟 
 
Areas where several solder beads meet can end up blending beautifully into a finished project or looking like a distracting solder clump, depending on how they’re approached. To avoid the latter, always pass solder beads through a junction point instead of ending them in the juncture’s center. 
 
This is a brief excerpt from Lesson 6 of STAINED GLASS BASICS (an instructional course I created with Oceanside Glass )! 
 
The full lesson is freely available on my site/YouTube (and Oceanside Glass ‘s) along with all previous lessons. This one demonstrates numerous soldering tips and tricks, including how to prevent heat cracks, how to perform decorative soldering, how to attach metal/wire detailing, & several other techniques to keep your solder flowing smoothly! 
 
 
 
 
 

10/08/2026

By the power [Mark has] vested in me, I now pronounce you mop-vaulted in the face. 😶🔇 
 
LESSON 6 of STAINED GLASS BASICS is now available! 
 
Go to my site/YouTube (or Oceanside Glass ‘s) to watch the full lesson & become an expert solderer! You’ll also gain an understanding of how/why to use 50/50, 60/40, 63/37 solders, how to solder-bead project edges, how to create decorative solder detailing, & so much more! 
 
 
 
 
 

Silver sparkle 🪩  I wanted my Stained Glass Basics course to convey the versatility of solder, so I made sure to include...
10/07/2026

Silver sparkle 🪩 
 
I wanted my Stained Glass Basics course to convey the versatility of solder, so I made sure to include footage of creating projects with not only basic foil soldering, but also decorative solder textures (like the sandbags around this hot air balloon basket) & tinned metal accents (like the oval hoop above the basket). 
 
These techniques can be combined to make even more interestingly tactile (& realistic! as with the cacti in photo 2) pieces, but sometimes smooth solder beads on their own do the best job of subtly complementing the glass & guiding a viewer’s eye through the art (as with the leafy caterpillar in photos 3 & 4). 
 
If I had to recommend just one lesson from this course, it’d be Lesson 6: Soldering. Pretty solder beads don’t come easy, & that struggle causes many beginners enough frustration to give up on the craft.  
 
This lesson provides many useful tips & demonstrations that I hope will get certain concepts to immediately ‘click’ into place within your head & hands, jumpstarting your soldering journey. Watch it now on my site/YouTube or Oceanside Glass ‘s! 
 
 
 
 
 

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